Gloves, Liners, and Leather Oil
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Gloves
- For men and women, all made in the USA, unless specifically marked otherwise
(even then, all leathers are from the USA). They are made from premium quality
leather, tanned in the US. They are
very well made and will last for years. We do recommend that you
oil them at least twice before wearing for the first time. They should be oiled
at least once a year after that. Consider trying our leather oil at the bottom of
this page -- we have used it for years, consider it the finest quality leather
oil, and highly recommend it. Some information on sizing is available below.
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Gunn
- A basic work glove style. It has
seams at the base of the middle two fingers. We've used this glove for 80% of
our riding and working for many years. Being a little shorter at the wrist allows circulation.
Elastic at the back of the wrist. Unlined. |
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Gauntlet - This is a
fantastic glove for cool summer nights and
Spring/Fall weather. It's our favorite! Unlined. The 5" gauntlet prevents air from
going up the sleeves of your jacket, which is pretty darned
uncomfortable. This is the best constructed
gauntlet we've ever seen. Finished hem on gauntlet instead of a raw edge. See note on glove liners below. |
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Luxury Deerskin -
Similar in style to the Gunn (above) but a bit dressier in black grained
leather. Unlined. Elastic in the back of the wrist for a more fitted
look. |
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Gunn - A basic work glove
with
seams at the base of the middle two fingers. These are heavyweight, made of 4 oz. leather,
almost twice as thick as the buckskin
gloves. Elk skin is extremely resistant to abrasion, yet almost as soft and supple as
buckskin. Unlined. |
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These are not offered as riding gloves,
but rather gloves to be worn at the end of the ride. Stick a pair of
these in your pack or bags and after you have the tent up and are ready
to relax, put them on. They are made of completely breathable polar
fleece so your hands stay warm and dry. They have deer skin suede palms
to give you a good grip on that "after the ride beverage!" I
have used a pair of these all winter in northern Minnesota as driving
gloves in the car, and can tell you they are very warm and comfortable.
These are limited to stock on hand, but as of 3/5/04, we have a good
supply. |
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Roper - A basic work glove with a reinforcing palm
patch, but shaped for a woman's hands. Unlined. Slightly flared wrist. A great glove for mild weather. |
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Driving - This glove has no seams on the palm to interfere
on multi-hour rides. Slightly longer than the Roper at the wrist. Unlined. |
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Gauntlet -
Our personal favorite for cool summer nights and
Spring/Fall weather. Unlined. The 5" gauntlet prevents air from
going up your sleeves and giving you the shivers! Finished hem on gauntlet instead of a raw edge
like other brands have. See note on glove liners below. |
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A 100% leather glove made of split
cowhide. Ball and tape at wrist for closure. About the
size of a woman's size 6 or 7. Unlined. Imported. |
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A leather fingerless glove made of very
sturdy and durable pigskin with reinforced palm. |
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Here is a little information on sizing |
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If you are not sure what size glove to order, measure your hand as shown in the picture to the right. This will give us a pretty good idea what size glove you need. My hand measures 9 1/4" around. When I bought my first pair of gauntlets, I wanted them to fit over the liners. A pair of XL were just a little bit snug at first, but quickly broke in to fit perfectly. If I had not wanted to ever wear liners with the gauntlets, a pair of size L would have worked, although they too would need to break in and stretch a bit. That's the beauty of buckskin, it will stretch and conform. |
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Glove Liners |
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100% polyester liners. These have no seams and
are a snug fit. |
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3M Thinsulate glove liner. Constructed like chore
gloves. Bulkier than the polyester liners, but also warmer. |
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DO YOU WANT YOUR HANDS TO STAY DRY? 13 inch long, nitrile15 mil industrial synthetic gloves. Designed to protect against gasoline and other fuels, as well as acids and alcohols. They are 100% waterproof in both directions; they do not breathe or leak. They will keep your hands and riding gloves dry in the rain! For cool wet weather try wearing these over a pair of our glove liners. Textured surface gives a good grip when wet. When wearing my gauntlets, if it gets a bit colder than planned for, putting these on over the buckskins, add quite a bit of warmth. Don't leave home without them! The picture shows the over-glove next to a XL gauntlet with a liner inserted into it. John Z's hand measures 9-1/4 inches in circumference at a point 1 inch above the thumb. The size 11 over-glove was a snug fit to pull on over the gauntlet and liner, but it fit well once it was on. It would fit a larger hand wearing an unlined glove or wearing no glove at all. Sizes 8
(small), 9 (medium), 10 (large), and 11 (XL) Green only |
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Our gloves are so soft when they're new that you may ask, "Why should I oil them?" The answer is, "To keep them that way." And to prevent them from absorbing moisture. All leather needs its natural oils replenished ... the oils that make it soft and strong. The tanning process is hard on those natural oils.
Leather will not stay
dry. It will absorb moisture from the air, rain, or whatever it can, so it's far
better to let it absorb oil that is beneficial. Our leather oil cleans,
strengthens, preserves, and waterproofs. And one of the best features is
that it dries. This is very important, because if the oil stays tacky, it will
hold dust and dirt that will eventually destroy the glove and the stitching. (This is also
why you shouldn't over-oil leather.) Leather does not need to feel tacky,
greasy, or sticky in order to be well oiled.
We use this oil on all our leathers:
jackets, vests, pants, boots, gloves. John
Z has worked with leather for many years and has tried every oil on the
market, and this is the best he's found. In fact, this oil has an interesting
story. An elderly immigrant from Germany was working as a custodian in a US
factory that manufactured all kinds of oil. One day he broke his leg and sadly
assumed that was the end of his job. But the company kept him on the payroll
and, when his leg was healed, welcomed him back to his job. He was so grateful
that he gave them an old German recipe for harness oil. The ingredients are
secret (even we don't know them), but the formula is a marvelous one. Yes, our
best leather oil is "harness oil" and it's even rodent-proof, which is
important for harnesses and tack stored in barns. But, this feature will also
protect your leathers, gloves, boots, and motorcycle gear from the gnawing
wildlife when you're staying in campgrounds or while it's stored in a shed or garage.
This is GREAT leather oil!
To oil your gloves, pour some oil into a container. Put one glove on and wipe
it using a rag dipped in the oil. Brand new glo
ves
will absorb this first
application instantly. Cover the gloves completely with oil. They will
probably be dry enough to be ready for the second application in a half-hour. They are
ready to wear after the second application.
Remember, you're not trying to see how much oil your gloves can hold. If they
stay wet for a few minutes after putting the oil on them, they don't need any
more for a while.
The gauntlets at the top of this photo have been oiled twice. The pair below
them are
brand new and have not been oiled. You can see how dry the leather was on the
top pair by
how much oil it has retained.
Will oiling make leather darker? You can tell by putting a drop of water on it. If that spot darkens, the oil will darken it too. But that also points out how dry the leather is.
Note: The blackened oil is NOT a dye. It will not turn natural-colored leather black, but is intended to keep black leather black.
Leather oil, 16 ounces. Clear or
Blackened - $9.50 each. Any two bottles for $17.00.
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